Valentino Garavani, the jet-set Italian designer whose high-glamour gowns — often in his trademark shade of red — were fashion show staples for nearly half a century, has died at home in Rome, his foundation announced on Monday.
Usually known only by his first name, Valentino was 93.
Founder of the eponymous brand, Valentino scaled the heights of haute couture, created a business empire and introduced a new colour to the fashion world: the so-called Valentino Red.
“Valentino Garavani passed away today at his Roman residence, surrounded by his loved ones,” the foundation said on Instagram.
The lying in state will be on Wednesday and Thursday, while the funeral will take place in Rome on Friday morning, it added.
Valentino was adored by generations of royals, first ladies and movie stars, from Jackie Kennedy Onassis to Julia Roberts to Queen Rania of Jordan, who swore the designer always made them look and feel their best.
“I know what women want,” Valentino once remarked. “They want to be beautiful.”
Never one for edginess or statement dressing, Valentino made precious few fashion faux-pas throughout his nearly half-century-long career, which stretched from his early days in Rome in the 1960s through to his retirement in 2008.
His fail-safe designs made Valentino the king of the red carpet, the go-to man for A-listers’ awards ceremony needs.
His sumptuous gowns have graced countless Academy Awards, notably in 2001, when Roberts wore a vintage black and white column dress to accept her best actress statue. Cate Blanchett also wore Valentino — a one-shouldered number in butter-yellow silk — when she won the Oscar for best supporting actress in 2004.
Valentino was also behind the long-sleeved lace dress Jacqueline Kennedy wore for her wedding to Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis in 1968. Kennedy and Valentino were close friends for decades, and for a spell the one-time U.S. first lady wore almost exclusively Valentino.
He was also close to Diana, Princess of Wales, who often donned his sumptuous gowns.
Beyond his signature orange-tinged shade of red, other Valentino trademarks included bows, ruffles, lace and embroidery — in short, feminine, flirty embellishments that added to the dresses’ beauty and to that of the women wearing them.
Perpetually tanned and impeccably dressed, Valentino shared the lifestyle of his jet-set patrons. In addition to his 46-metre yacht and an art collection including works by Picasso and Miro, the couturier owned a 17th-century chateau near Paris with a garden said to boast more than a million roses.
Valentino and his longtime partner, Giancarlo Giammetti, flitted among their homes — which included places in New York, London, Rome, Capri and Gstaad, Switzerland — travelling with their pack of pugs. The pair regularly received A-list friends and patrons, including Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow.
“When I see somebody and unfortunately she’s relaxed and running around in jogging trousers and without any makeup … I feel very sorry,” the designer told RTL television in a 2007 interview.
“For me, woman is like a beautiful, beautiful flower bouquet. She has always to be sensational … always to be perfect, always to please the husband, the lover, everybody. Because we are born to show ourselves always at our best.”
Cinematic beginnings
Valentino was born into a well-off family in the northern Italian town of Voghera on May 11, 1932. He said it was his childhood love of cinema that set him down the fashion path.
“I was crazy for silver screen, I was crazy for beauty, to see all those movie stars being sensation, well-dressed, being always perfect,” he explained in the 2007 television interview.
After studying fashion in Milan and Paris, he spent much of the 1950s working for established Paris-based designer Jean Desses and later Guy Laroche, before striking out on his own. He founded the house of Valentino on Rome’s Via Condotti in 1959.
From the beginning, Giammetti was by his side, handling the business aspect while Valentino used his natural charm to build a client base among the world’s rich and fabulous.
After some early financial setbacks — Valentino’s tastes were always lavish, and the company spent with abandon — the brand took off.
Early fans included Italian screen sirens Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren, as well as Hollywood stars Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. Legendary American Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland also took the young designer under her wing.
Over the years, Valentino’s empire expanded as the designer added ready-to-wear, menswear and accessories lines to his stable. Valentino and Giammetti sold the label to an Italian holding company for an estimated $300 million US in 1998. Valentino would remain in a design role for another decade.
In 2007, the couturier feted his 45th anniversary in fashion with a three-day-long blowout in Rome, capped with a grand ball in the Villa Borghese gallery.
Valentino retired in 2008.
